October 9, 2009 at 1:23 am #410132
Okay, right now the materials I have are 2 lego base plates, 2 desklamps running at 70 watts,sheets of oragami paper(colors of red green and blue) used for green screen, 1 minicam pro and a bin of legos. Also helium frog 2.06.
I improvised alot of materials as you can see. But now I am having problems with getting the green screen properly lit.I put my desk lamps at both side of the paper(tacked to a wall) and turn them on. This makes the oragami paper too bright to be the right color for the program to pick up.But when I only use one lamp the lighting is way to uneven.I would really not prefer to buy new things but are there any settings for me to mess around with? or techniques I should try? Thank you!
😥October 9, 2009 at 1:31 am #410133
Try moving your lamps farther away from the greenscreen. That might help :wink .October 9, 2009 at 3:16 pm #410145
first things first, put paper over your lamps! this isnt only for light flicker it diffuses the light meaning: makes it even! and it makes it a bit less bright. if you already do this and it doesnt help, then are there any wrinkles in your paper? because any shadow whatsoever will mess it up as if will create a different color (shade really) for the program to pick up. you could do like bricklord said and put them further.
-flipOctober 31, 2012 at 5:43 pm #419816
I’ve been doing a lot of testing with green screen cloth and here is what I’ve found and learned:
1. You don’t have enough lamps! I found the best results if I use 4 lamps! The reason: You need a lot of light on the minifig or set and two lamps pointing at the minifig or scene will give plenty of light! This will give you a nice, crisp clean lit edge around the minifig, set, or pieces in the scene.
2. I use a green screen cloth that was made specifically for this purpose! I wouldn’t use origami paper, which has a high gloss factor or any paper unless you can get a perfectly clean, none wrinkled sheet with great even coloring!
3. The green screen has to be moved pretty far back from the minifig or set in the background! If it is too close to the minifig or set is will shine or glare into the minifig or sets edges and cause the green halo or green edge effect! This is the main issue with green screen problems and bad images. The more you get a green glare then there will be more of a green lining or halo on your minifig or set!
4. Use two lamps on the green screen, with each pointed 45 degrees at the green screen but not too close because this is what will cause the glare, which will show up of the minifig or set! You want even lighting on the green screen yet you don’t want it really bright!! Try to keep the green screen a little darker than normal but enough to where the light distribution is even and all the green looks exactly the same on the entire green screen cloth!
5. Image quality and focus!! What I mean by this is, you have to have a really nice quality camera or webcam that can give you a high quality image. The focus of the camera or webcam on the minifig or set must be enough to give a crisp, clean edge and not a blurry edge. The more your minifig or set has an edge then the more you will have green color bleed that makes it harder for the video editor to remove later.
6. Editing software! This is the last critical component to getting nice high quality green screen shots! Some editing software such as iKITmovie will let you use up to three color settings to remove the green in the background. Plus there is software that has this image line bleeding effect that knows how to remove the green from the edge of the minifig or set image. The more features of chrome color affects you have at your disposal the more you can clean up a nice green screen image!
Hope these helped!
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