So what are YOUR tricks?

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  • #398162
    Profile photo of Sean
    Sean
    Member

    Not sure if someone had already made a thread for this, but here’s mine.

    What are some little brickfilming tips and tricks that you’ve made up or developed from another idea by yourself?

    I’ve got a couple so far…

    For turning minifig heads, I didn’t want to shave anything off the neck. So I do the next best thing; I shave a miniscule amount of plastic from inside the head. This means it animates smoothly, and more often than not the hair won’t move unless I try to make it move.

    My other one is for animating hands. I use the “pointy” end of a lego spear which slips in easily and lets me make small adjustments to rotation or position. the length helps too.

    Now, I’m sure someone else has done these, but these are some little tricks I developed without influence.

    So what are some little tricks you’ve developed? They can be for anythign, from animation to lighting to set building, etc.

    Share your secrets!

    #398177
    Profile photo of BertL
    BertL
    Member

    I usually pick up my minifig, change its position and put it back in its old place. That way my sets won’t move around (I suck at making my sets secure).

    I spend a lot of time on getting the lighting right. At this point I only use one lamp (because I can’t be bothered to put my second lamp next to it; there’s no room for another lamp anyways), so it’s very important to find the right position.

    #398195
    Profile photo of MysteryCo.
    MysteryCo.
    Member

    If you dont have a webcam and have a digital camera, first make sure the flash is off and your pictures wont come out blurry.

    #398211

    I used to animate Bert’s way, by taking the figs off the set and putting them back down after I moved them, but I always forgot where they were meant to be. I couldn’t check the previous frames very easily without moving my camera so I used to wait until I’d finished to see if any mistakes were made.

    That kinda put me off, so I started using the fig tools like spades, forks of spears for the hand movements, and taking myself down to their level for walking.

    Actually, for walking, I kinda rock the fig forward with its foot out so it fits snugly into the creases bewteen studs.

    #398214
    Profile photo of daboog
    daboog
    Member

    onion skining is one of the best things on earth for animating!
    it’s not exactly a tip but it’s a great thing to use.
    You can animate bert’s way and put the lego in the exact same place,
    and if there is one little thing out of place you can see it.

    #398226
    Profile photo of Prog Shooter
    Prog Shooter
    Member

    Tips:

    1. Smear a little bit of petroleum jelly on the neck- it makes it looser on the turns so the head will move with less friction. Same thing on the arms and legs. Petroleum jelly is neat stuff.

    2. Get your camera on a tripod if you can, and secure its cord with duct tape. Tape it to your desk, for example. That way, it’s not moving the camera all over the place. You can use duct tape on the sets to secure them to your workbench, as well.

    3. Try to animate at the eye level of the minifigs- this will bring the viewer right into their world.

    4. Wear black. Any other color of shirt reflects light back onto your set.

    5. Stick with 15 frames per second when you’re animating. The minifigs are really too small for 24fps, and the higher the frame rate, the less you will be able to get done in a day. I know a guy who is still working on his film after starting it 3 years ago. This stuff takes time, so find shortcuts without sacrificing quality, and use them to your best advantage.

    6. Try to animate to a soundtrack. That way you won’t have to guess so much about timing- it’s already there.

    7. Bounce lights off of white card wherever possible. If you don’t have any, get some baking paper and tape it over your lights. It will diffuse them and give you even lighting.

    8. Frame toggle is your friend. Try not to rely too much on onion skinning, as something that looks right with it on will not look right when you’re flipping from frame to frame. Use toggle whenever you can, but don’t overuse it. The best device you have for checking your movements is your MIND!

    9. Try to lay down some background noise to tie all of your sound effects together. Not having any makes the scene sound “dead”.

    10. Plan out your film before shooting anything. You will catch most of the problems in pre-production and save time off the back end.

    #398228
    Profile photo of Sean
    Sean
    Member

    Prog, what’s the difference between frame toggle and onionskinning?

    #398230
    Profile photo of Squash
    Squash
    Member

    Frame toggling is when you flip through your frames, back and forth, rather than seeing them all layered onto one image. I prefer to use it as well, as it can tell you how the movements will look in the final film. It’s also a bit less busy than onion skinning, allowing you to focus on one thing at a time. It’s more a preference than anything, but it does help you learn about movement.

    #398231
    Profile photo of Sean
    Sean
    Member

    That’s odd, when I use onion skinning in SMP it only compares it to the last frame taken.

    #398232
    Profile photo of Buxton
    Buxton
    Member

    Traditional onion skinning takes several frames and runs through them so you can spot glitches in the animation. SMP’s onion skinning is exactly the same as prog’s frame toggle. I thought I read somewhere that you can set it up do do multiple frames but I’ve never found a way.

    My tricks:

    Watch lots of movies and think about how they’re shot, then try to apply that to brickfilms.

    When you’re editing audio, use headphones and turn the sound up loud. Things that sound ok through pc speakers sound terrible through headphones.

    You can do something entertaining in 30 seconds. It doesn’t have to be a ten minute epic.

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