October 14, 2008 at 12:19 am #401919
“Sean” wrote: That’s odd, when I use onion skinning in SMP it only compares it to the last frame taken.
You must have a cheaper version of SMP, because the more expensive ones have multiple frame onionskinning.December 27, 2008 at 6:22 pm #404686
ADJUST YOUR CAMERA!!!! Before I did, my movies looked like a blurry mess of dark stuff, and some lego’s tossed in.January 16, 2009 at 7:30 pm #405415
make sure your large sets are built on XL base plates then blu tac or tape it down. dont use sello tape or clear tape. only masking tapeJanuary 16, 2009 at 10:20 pm #405450
1) Don’t waste your time animating till you take care of flicker. Once you can get 600 frames taken every other second to look like one frame then you can start.
2) Run the flicker test (one frame every other second for 10 minutes) before filming the first scene of the day.
3) When making a long walk sequence, buy 8 identical minifigs and pose each one in the walk cycle. Now just swap out figs.
4) Wear drak cloths and always take a frame from the same position. I walk behind a curtain to reduce flicker.
5) Nail down your set. Glue, double sided tape, whatever,.. but it can’t move.
6) Nail down your camera. I use a professional tripod with a 50 pound sand bag suspended inside it to prevent motion.
7) If you need to animate string soak it in superglue to make it stiff.
8) Plan everything. For one complex scene I had an Excel spreadsheet with the position of every object for every frame in the scene.
9) Hand motion with talking. Take a whole series of frames with the moving hand in different positions. A series of 30 for a plus or minus 10 degree motion. Now in post production, you can copy and reorder the frames to get smooth action that matches the words. I in fact wrote a software program that picked the right frame based on the volume of the speech I was animating to. This gave me a rough sequence that I could then tweek.
10) Try to do as much of your special effect “in camera” rather than in post. Editing always takes longer than you plan.
11) Make backups of everything daily if not hourly.
7)January 19, 2009 at 8:20 pm #405542
I’ve seen spud listen to E.S posthumus while he animates, it gets him in the mood…..March 24, 2009 at 2:49 am #407292
Well, I made my own custom holder for my Logitech Quick Cam Pro 9000, it works great, holds it secure and all. I really don’t have a lot of “tricks” I just do everything normally.May 16, 2009 at 5:23 pm #408600
My tip: sticky tac
I love that blue (or white) putty. It is very useful for climbing, jumping, pulling, holding, etc…May 21, 2009 at 5:22 am #408636
So I can only animate when I go home to my parents house because thats where all my lego is, but when I’m there I like to make up for lost time.
I find the best trick is to treat the movie as a real movie and the lego characters as real actors. That means making sure the camera is always at there level and usuing as many diferent angles and close ups as you need because it makes the movie way more interesting and believable then one straight shot. It can also make up for not perfect animation. If you have to do a ‘stunt’ with your lego character like a flip or a fall and you can’t make it work. try cutting it together from different angles. this can more oftan then not make it look more impresive then just a standard straight shot… of course if you do do a ‘trick’ on a straight shot every once in a while it reminds everyone that you can do it.
Check out lego sweeney todd by Galen5055!!June 6, 2009 at 1:16 pm #408794
I use Silly Putty and put it on the bottom of the plate that has the minifigs on it. And I can’t get my NEW Mini digital camera to work! I’m at a standstill! :banghead:June 13, 2009 at 6:32 pm #408845
steak on toastMember
I film a scene once, and then once again. This way I choose the best one and it’s usually the second one because I’ve had practice and know what I messed up in the first one. It’s confusing, i know. 8)